Boot or shoe



p 1929- A. B. KIERSTEAD 1,727 ,831 I BOT on suo:

Filed July 1:5, 1926 Patented Sept. 10, 1929.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

ANDERSON CO., INC., OF BROCKTON, CHUSETTSJ MASSACHUSETTS, A CORPORATION OF MASSA- BOOT OR SHOE.

Application filed July 13,

The present invention relates to boots and shoes and more particularly to Welting and methods of making the same.

The object of the present invention is to produce a welt which may not only be inexpensively manufactured and which will impart an o'namental efl'ect to the shoe, but

which also is useful as a means to protect against entrance of moisture between the upper and the outsole of the shoe.

With this object in view, one feature of the present invention consists in an ornamental welt having a line of fair stitching extending only partially therethrough and adapted to lie adjacent and in proximity to the upper. This Welt may be used in conjunction with a Goodyear Welt or a McKay shoe, the appearance in either case simulating that of a double sole shoe. The provision of a fair stitching extending partially through the welt in such a manner that a stitch is exposed in one face only makes for a smooth surface on the opposite side of the welt and therefore causes it to lie in close engagement with the usual welt or outsole of the shoe, thus effectively protecting the seams from entrance of moisture.

Another feature consists in the provision of a double layer welt having a line of stitchi ng through one layer only the two layers being attached together in a manner to form a pronounced bead along the line of stitching adjacent the margin of the Welt. This head is adapted to be positioned at the junction of the upper and the regular welt or outsole and it not only lends strength to the shoe, but also protects the shoe against entrance of moisture.

Other features of invention consist in certain novel features of Construction and modes of operation hereinafter described and particularly defined in the claims.

In the accompanying drawings, F ig. 1 is a perspective view of the toe of a shoe embodyr ing the welting of the present invention; Fig. 2 is a sectional view through the toe of the shoe shown in Fig. 1; Fig. 3 is a View of the inside of the welt of the present invention prior to securing of the two layers together; Fg. 4 is an outside View of the welt shown in 1926. Serial No. 122,057.

Fie 3; Fig. 5 is a perspective view of the welting of Fig. 3 showing one surface after being subjected to the skiving operation and F lg. 6 is a perspective View of the completed welt.

The preferr'ed embodiment of the invention conprises a strip of welting consisting of two -layers which are cemented together, the top layer being: provided with a line ot stitching a( 'acent to the folded edge which stitching not only provides an ornamental seam at the top of the welt, but also acts as a filler to produce a head adjacent to the margin. The bead is accentuated by reducing the thickness ot' one of the folds of the w elting as by the skiving operation. When manufacturing a Goodyear welt shoe according to the preferred form of the invention this welt may he attaehed to the insole and upper of the shoe simnltaneously with the regular welt.

The illustrated embodiment of the invention comprises a completed welt as shown in Fig. 6. This welt consists of a double thiekness of leather or other suitable welting material having a top fold 8 and a lower told 10 connected along the folded margin 12 and cemented together over their inner surfaces. Adjacent to the margin 12 is a line of chain stitching 14 with the chain on the inside ot' the welting. The chain stitching provides an increased thickncss of the welt adjacent to the fold so that a pronounced head is formed adjacent to the edge, the thiekness of this head being accentuated with respect to the thickness of the welt proper by the formation of the top fold 8 of a reduced thickness.

The welting is manufactured in the following manner A flat strip ofnaterial shown in Figs.3 and 4: is provided with the lon itudinal chain stitch 14 which lies at one side of the longitudinal center line of the material, being positioned so that upon ;t'olding of the material the outside of the stitch will appear along the top surface of the head. The top layer of the welt is then reduced in thickness from the line of stitching to the edge by running the welting through a skiving machine, employing the line of chain stitching as a guide. While either of the layers may be 1 shVcd, it is prefe'able to perform this operation o the inside surface of the layer which carries the stitching, namely the top-layer of the welting. Thereafter, the two layers are folded and cemented together to form the finished welting shown in Fig. 6.

In the anufacture of a Goodyear welt shoe, after the upper 16 has been attached to the insole 18 in the usual manner the usual welt 20 of the shoe and the auxiliary welt which is indieated generally' at 22 are simultancously run in for attachment to the insole by means of a welting machine as will be obvions to thoseskilled in the art. The attachment of the welts to the shoe is carried out hy means of stitches 24 extending through both welts, the upper and the insole. Subsequentlyhe outsole 26 is Secured to the welt 20 by stitching 28 in'the usual manner.

The finished shoe as shown in Fig. 1 prescnts the line of fair stitching formed by the stitches 14 at a position immediately adjacent to the upper of the shoe thus giving an ornamental eifect. The bead at the fold line lies at the junction of the upper and the welt and by its resiliency forms a tght joint which effcctively prevents entrance of water into the ,seamsu the joint being enhanced by the fact that the line of stitching does not eXtend entirely through the welt but only through one thickness thcreof so that close engagement between the auxiliary welt and the ,usual welt is assured. e

The invention having been described, what is claimed is: 1. A shoe having a regular welt and a second welt with a line of eXposed fair stitching a-djacent to the upper of the shoe and extending partially into the said second welt, both welts being attached together to the shoe.

2. A welt comprising an integral strip having a line of fair stitching extending partially therethrough and exposed on one'face only. i

3. A welt comprising an integral strip having a surface for attachment to the insole ofa shoe and a line of fair stitching adjacent to the edge of the welt and extending partiallly therethrough and exposed at one face on y.

4. A welt conprising two attached layers of material having a line of fair stitching passing through one layer only, said stitching being exposed on one face of said layer and hidden on the opposite face and separating the layers.

5. A welt comprsing a folded strip of material having a line of fair stitching passing through one layer only.

6. A welt comprising two attached layers' of material' and having a line of stitching through one layer only adjacent to the margin and separating the layers to form a bead.

7. A welt comprising a strip folded lengthwise a'nd having a line of sttching passing through one layer only of the strip adjacent to the folded margin of the welt and formng to the center line of a strip of material, folding the material to expose the stitching on the outer surface of one layer only, and cementing the folds togeth er;

10. A method of making welting which consists in sewing a line of stitching on one side of the longitudinal center line of a strip of material, skiving the material from the line of stitching to the nearer edge, folding the material on the center line, and cementing the folds together.

i 11. A welt comprising a strip folded lengthwise and having a line of chain stitching passing through one layer of the folded strip adj acent to the fold line with the chain between the layers to form a filler between the layers and to produce a bead at the folded edge of the welt.

12. A welt comprising a folded strip having the folded portions cemented together, one of the portions being of less thickness than the other, and a line of stitching passing through the folded portion which is of less thickness and being located adjacent the folded edge ,of the strip and forming a' filler to produce a bead adjacent said folded edge.

13. A shoe having an upper, a sole, and a welt comprising a folded stri provided with a line of fair stitching extendng through one layer only of the strip and' adapted to lie exposed adjacent to the upper of the shoe.

14. A shoe having an upper, a sole, and a. welt comprising a folded strip provided with a line of fair stitching extending through one layer only of the strip and adapted to lie exposed adjacent to the upper of the shoe, and means passing through both layers of the welt adjacent their edges for securng the Welt and upper together.

In testimony whereof I name to this application. V

ASHTON B. KIERSTEAD.

have signed my 

